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Classic
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page 37
To roast Ortolans.
You may lard them with bacon, or roast them without, putting a vine-leaf between
each; spit them sideways, baste them with butter, and strew bread crumbs on them
while roasting; Send them to table with fried bread crumbs around them,
garnished with lemon, and a good gravy sauce in a boat.
To dress Ruffs and Riefs.
Draw them, and truss them cross-legged, as you do snipes, and spit them the same
way; lay them upon a buttered toast, pour good gravy into the dish, and serve
them up quick.
OF FISH.
To roast a Cod's Head.
Wash and scour the head very clean, scotch it with a knife, strew a little salt
on it, and lay it before the fire; throw away the water that runs from it the
first half hour, then strew on it some nutmeg, cloves, mace, and salt, and baste
it often with butter. Take all the gravy of the fish, white wine and meat gravy,
some horse-raddish, shallots, whole pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and a bay-leaf
or two: boil this liquor up with butter, and the liver of the fish boiled,
broke, and strained into it, with the yolks of two or three eggs, oysters,
shrimps, and balls made of fish; put fried fish round it. Garnish with lemon and
horse-
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