Classic Cook Books
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page 374
Lake Superior trout and white fish, and coming from cold waters they keep best
of all fresh-water fish; the latter is the best, most delicate, and has fewer
bones, greatly resembling shad. The wall-eyed pike, bass and pickerel of the
inland lakes are also excellent fish, and are shipped, packed in ice, reaching
market as fresh as when caught, and are sold at moderate prices. California
salmon is also shipped in the same way, and is sold fresh in all cities, with
fresh cod and other choice varieties from the Atlantic coast, but the long
distance which they must be transpoted makes the pice high. The cat-fish is the
staple Mississippi river fish, and is cooked in various ways. Lake Superior
trout are the best fresh fish for baking. All fish which have been packed in ice
should be cooked immediately after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose
their flavor. Stale fish must never be eaten. Fresh fish should be scaled and
cleaned properly on a dry table and not in a pan of water. As little water
should be used as is compatible with perfect cleanliness. When dressed, place
near ice until needed, then remove and cook immediately. If frozen when brought
from market, thaw in ice-cold water. Fresh cod, whiting, haddock, and shad are
better for being salted the night before cooking them, and the muddy smell and
taste of fresh-water fish is removed by soaking, after cleaning, in strong salt
and water.
Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their sweetness; cut off
the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string. They
are good except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. A fine
codfish is thick at the back of the neck, and is best in cold weather. In
sturgeon the flesh should be white, the veins blue, the grain even and the skin
tender.
The best salt mackerel for general use are "English mess," but "bloaters" are
considered nicer. In selecting always choose those which are thick on the belly
and fat; poor mackerel are always dry. The salt California salmon are excellent,
those of a dark rich yellow being best. To freshen, place with scale side up.
Salmon boiled and served with egg sauce or butter dressing is nice. No. 1 white
fish is also a favorite salt fish, and will be found in all markets.
A good deal of sturgeon is put up and sold for smoked halibut. The skin of
halibut should be white; if dark it is more likely to be sturgeon. Smoked salmon
should be firm and dry. Smoked white fish and trout are very nice, the former
being a favorite in whatever way dressed. Select good firm whole fish. White
fish is very nice broiled. Each of the above is better than herring.
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