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the latter being most economical at the family table, the bones forming an
excellent basis for soup, and the meat, when boned and rolled up (which should
be done by the butcher), and roasted, being in good form for the carver, as it
enables him to distribute equally the upper part with the fatter and more skinny
portions. A roast served in this way, if cooked rare, may be cooked a second or
even a third time. There are roasts and other meats equally good in the fore
quarter of beef, but the proportion of bone to meat is greater.
Veal should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, with tissues
hanging loosely about the bone, it is not good. Veal will not keep so long as an
older meat, especially in hot or damp weather, and when going, the fat is soft
and moist, the meat flabby and spotted, and inclined to be porous like a sponge.
Overgrown veal is inferior to that which is smaller but well fatted.
Mutton should be fat, and the fat clear and white. Be wary of buying mutton with
yellow fat. An abundance of fat is a source of waste, but as the lean part of
fat mutton is much more juicy and tender than any other, it should be chosen.
After the butcher has cut off all he can be persuaded to remove, you will still
have to trim it freely before broiling. The lean of mutton is quite different
from that of beef. While beef is a bright carnation, mutton is a deep, dark red.
The hind quarter of mutton is best for roasting. The ribs may be used for chops
and are the sweeter, but the leg cutlets are the most economical, as there is
much less bone, and no hard meat as on the ribs.
Almost any part will do for broth. As much of the fat should be removed as
practicable, then cut into small pieces and simmered slowly until the meat falls
to pieces. Drain off and skim off any remaining fat, and thicken with rice or
Lamb is good at a year old, and more digestible than most immature meats. The
meat should be light red and fat. If not too warm weather, it ought to be kept a
few days before cooking. It is stringy and indigestible if cooked too soon after
Great care must be taken in selecting pork. If ill-fed or diseased, no meat is
more injurious to the health. The lean must be fine-grained, and both fat and
lean very white. The rind should be smooth and cool to the touch. If clammy, be
sure the pork is stale, and reject it. If the fat is full of small kernels, it
is an indication of disease. In good bacon the rind is thin, the fat firm and
the lean tender. Rusty bacon has yellow streaks in it. Hams are tried by
sticking a knife into them. If when drawn out it has no bad odor, the ham is
Meat should always be wiped with a dry, clean towel as soon as it comes from the
butcher's, and in loins the pipe which runs along the bone should be removed, as
it soon taints. Never buy bruised meat.
When found necessary to keep meat longer than was expected, sprinkle
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